Kefalonia Greece is the biggest of the Ionian islands, lush, green and mountainous with a laidback lifestyle. And the Kefalonia beaches are famous for their sandy shores and turquoise sea. We explored the best places to stay in Kefalonia and got expert tips on fun Kefalonia things to do.
We travelled to Kefalonia Greece in October with Ionian Villas and stayed in three villas in different parts of the island. This gave me some great insights to the best places to stay in Kefalonia. I chatted to some true Kefalonia experts too, who’ve spent years on the island. So I’ve lots of insider tips and recommendations to share for fun things to do in Kefalonia Greece.
Ionian Villas invited me to Kefalonia and hosted my stay on the understanding that I would write an honest and unbiased account of my trip. All thoughts and opinions are, as always, my own.
Where is Kefalonia Greece?
Kefalonia, also known as Cephalonia, is the largest island in the Ionian group that lie off the west coast of mainland Greece. From different viewpoints in Kefalonia you can see Lefkada island to the north and Zakynthos to the south.
On Kefalonia you’ll find mountain ranges, lush forests, picturesque villages – and olive trees everywhere! There are over a million of them on the island.
From the Middle Ages, Kefalonia was a valuable strategic base in the Mediterranean. So the island had many different rulers over time including the Republic of Venice. And it was the Venetians who influenced the architecture of the Ionian islands and also planted all those olive trees! To this day olive oil production is an important part of the island economy.
There are beaches on Kefalonia to suit all tastes. Choose from hidden coves with crystal-clear waters or busy bays that offer water sports and boat tours. We discovered lovely places to stay in Kefalonia in both the north and south of the island. In fact it’s big enough to plan a 2-centre stay for an unforgettable Kefalonia holiday.
No time to read right now? You can pin this image to save and share on Pinterest
How to get to Kefalonia Greece
One of the bonuses of a holiday in Kefalonia, is that unlike many Greek islands, it has an airport. From May to mid-October it receives regular flights from London Gatwick and Stansted and several low-cost carriers also offer routes from regional airports like Bristol and Manchester. The flight time from London to Kefalonia’s international airport at Argostoli is less than 3 hours 30 minutes.
Getting Around Kefalonia
Kefalonia is a big island, smaller than Crete but larger than its well-known Ionian neighbour Corfu. You can cross the island and back in a day, but Kefalonia doesn’t have fast roads. I’d plan a two centre Kefalonia holiday if you’re keen to see all the sights on the island.
The airport, near Argostoli, the capital of the island, is on the south west coast. If you’ve decided to base your Kefalonia holidays in the south, you may only need to drive 15 or 20 minutes from the airport. Golden beaches await in Lassi just north of Argostoli whilst quieter coves lie along the coast to the east.
If you head north, the main road to Fiskardo, a pretty and popular fishing village on the north east tip of the island, is straight and easy to drive. That’s not to say it’s a motorway, or even an A road, and it still takes an hour and a half to cover 49km. But it swings easily through stunning mountain scenery and every now and then you’ll want to pull over to jump out and gaze at a wonderful sea view.
Or stop and wait for a herd of goats to shuffle out of the middle of the road.
Things to do in Kefalonia
My friend Fiona and I left our families at home and flew to Kefalonia from London Gatwick in early October. One of the most popular things to do on a Kefalonia holiday is explore the island. And since we were staying in three different villas during our visit we had the chance to travel around. So we discovered places to go and things to do in Kefalonia both north and south.
North Kefalonia Holidays
Our first port of call was the harbourside village of Fiscardo, also known as Fiskardo, on the northern most tip of the island.
Explore Fiskardo
Fiskardo in October is a quintessential sleepy Greek island harbour. Candy-coloured Venetian style houses cluster around the quayside. Painted wooden boats bob and jostle at their moorings. An old man and a young boy drop lines into the water and pull out little silver fish that flicker in the sunlight.
It’s a very different tempo in high summer when mega yachts moor up next to the fishing boats and a cosmopolitan crowd throngs the little port. But in autumn the pace is mellow and relaxing. We loved drinking coffees at the water’s edge, exploring little alleyways decked in bourgainvillea and browsing the boutiques.
Find out more about Fiskardo Kefalonia and our villa with a view of the harbour.
Fiscardo is one of the few villages to retain its original Venetian style architecture after a devastating earthquake in 1953. Kefalonia does experience occasional tremors as do other parts of Greece, Italy and Turkey and these days buildings in Greece are designed to withstand earthquakes.
Fiskardo beaches
After strolling around the village our top priority was to explore the Fiscardo beaches. Just a minute or two’s walk from the harbour, we found the town beach, a shingly cove with some shady trees.
The next Fiskardo beach we tried was Emblisi, a pebble beach with warm, clear, calm waters perfect for swimming or snorkelling. The angled rock formations around the cove seem specially designed to lie on when you want to dry in the sun. And we loved the little snack bar at the back of the beach who were happy to customise our hot chocolates with shots of Metaxa!
Another famous Fiscardo beach is Alaties which lies about 9 km away. It’s a little sheltered cove with fine shingle and rock pools where salt was once dried and collected. Dafnoudi, a 15 minute walk through olive groves from Antipata, is another secluded find.
Visit Assos Kefalonia
After our stay in Fiscardo we headed south, planning to stop and explore Assos village 20 km away on the west coast. The little car park was full but the waterside village was quiet and serene.
One of the most beautiful villages on Kefalonia island, Assos was badly damaged in the earthquake but was carefully rebuilt with the help of the French. This is why Assos now has a square called Paris.
We sat in the sunshine at the water’s edge looking out over the pretty, almost circular bay. Salad with a hunk of feta, olives, a beer, traditional music wafting out of a taverna kitchen: it was the perfect Greek island afternoon. Up on the hillside, thickly wooded with pine and cypress, are the remains of a 15th century Venetian castle. It’s a lovely walk up, with fabulous views.
See Myrtos Beach
About 10 km south of Assos is world-famous Myrtos, the superstar beach on Kefalonia. A silverly curve of sand and pebbles, it lies at the foot of limestone cliffs and is lapped by turquoise waters. It’s a long way down to the beach so plan to make a day of it, though strong currents mean it’s not the best for families. Or simply pull over at the stopping place on the coast road and drink in that breathtaking view.
South of Myrtos lies Agia Kyriaki bay, another fabulous Kefalonia beach. This is a long shingly strand with reasonably priced umbrellas and sunbeds and a taverna with a good reputation. It’s one of the less well-known beaches on Kefalonia, accessible from both Argostoli and Lixouri. Good place to watch the sunset too.
Holidays in Kefalonia: east coast
On the east side of the island is Antisamos beach which appeared in the film of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Its eye-catching combination of lush green hillsides, pale pebbles and azure water make it a star attraction. The town of Sami nearby is the second largest port after Argostoli.
Sami is also a good base from which to see the Melissani underground lake, also called the cave of the nymphs, and the Drogarati cave. Visiting these beautiful natural rock formations are popular things to do on Kefalonia.
The middle of the day is a good time to visit Melissani cave. You can take a short boat ride onto the lake as sunlight streams in through an opening in the roof of the cavern.
Nearby, the Drogarati caves have stalagmites, stalactites and such good acoustics that concerts are held there.
Kefalonia holidays: south west coast
After Fiskardo we drove to our next villa in the twisty lanes and olive groves of the south west coast. You need a car if you’re staying around here as the villages are small and the roads can be steep. Road signs are charmingly rare though so find a good map rather than relying entirely on GPS.
Our local village in these parts was Spartia. It has two little supermarkets and the family run taverna Cavo Liakas. We had a couple of fun evenings here, especially when we discovered its links to our favourite shop in Argostoli. The menu offers traditional taverna food with some contemporary Mediterranean twists. We loved the homemade lemon geranium scented wine – a delicious end to a meal and you can buy a pretty bottle to take home too!
Shopping in Kefalonia
Argostoli town, the capital of Kefalonia, has an unexpectedly grand pedestrianised street of shops and bars called Lithostroto. Here you’ll find stylish boutiques, desirable jewellers and artisan crafts amongst the usual run of souvenir shops.
In one little gift shop, Alegria, on a side street leading down to the port, we discovered the owners had also been in Cavo Liakas in Spartia the night before. In fact they are family. What are the chances? Well, given that Kefalonia is an island I suppose they are higher than average. But still, happy little connections like these are part of the fun of a Kefalonia holiday.
Alegria, in Rokou Vergoti 1, has a lovely mix of gifts, holiday clothes, accessories and some very pretty ceramics. They source as many products as possible from Greece.
Kefalonia is well known for its olive oil and also its thyme honey. But one of our favourite finds from our Kefalonia holiday were goat bells. The gentle sonorous tinkling is never far away when you’re travelling through the island and we happened to pass a workshop near Assos with bells hanging outside…..
Kefalonia turtles
During the summer endangered loggerhead turtles nest on the narrow beaches south of Argostoli. They also gather in the warm waters of the Koutavos lagoon which adjoins Argostoli harbour.
They’re quite easy to spot here in the mornings when the local fishermen unload their catches and clean their nets. Volunteer patrol teams from Wildlife Sense monitor the nesting beaches and carry out research projects to help protect the sea turtles. You can find out more about their work here or even volunteer to work with them.
South Coast Beaches in Kefalonia
We spent a day exploring the winding lanes of the south west coast in search of pretty Kefalonia beaches. These are our top picks!
Agios Thomas a tiny cove near Karavados, it has soft sand and an easy entry to the water. Two tavernas overlook the sea so it may well get busy with families in high season.
Trapezaki nearby has a chic white painted taverna and little stone harbour. We didn’t see it at its best because storms the night before had disturbed the sand. But it’ll be back by Spring the taverna manager reassured us.
Lourdas, a little further east is more developed with a long strip of beach alongside a road lined with restaurants. Importantly it’s a good place to hire boats to explore the coastline and find secluded coves for picnics and swims.
Kanali beach is another quiet stretch of sand at the bottom of a steep but walkable track. It has gorgeous views over the sea and towards Mount Ainos. Soft sand gently slopes into the water which was crystal clear and warm. We found it after a tip-off from the owner of Olivestone villa. Come prepared, with your own snacks and beach umbrellas, as this is a natural beach without facilities.
In calm summer weather you can walk from Kanali to Lithero next door and then on to Trapezaki and even Lourdas.
Skala is a resort town on the south east tip of the island. It has a long stretch of beach with boats to hire to find more secluded coves away from the main tourist zones.
Lassi lies between the airport and Argostoli . It’s a little tourist resort with golden sand beaches. We had a last swim at Makris Gialos in Lassi on our way to the airport. A popular hotel overlooks the beach but it wasn’t particularly crowded in October and the sea was warm and clear. In 2019 this beach gained coveted Blue Flag status.
Paliki Peninsula
Xi beach which lies south of Lixouri was a top tip from the Kefalonia experts we talked to. Although we didn’t have time to see it ourselves it sounds worth a detour. Xi beach lies on the Paliki peninsula, the little crooked finger of land which juts out from Kefalonia’s west coast. And it’s famous for its reddish brown sand which contains clay. Lots of people use it for DIY face and body masks on the beach as it’s said to have cleansing properties!
Catch the ferry to Lixouri
Although we didn’t get as far as Xi beach we did take the car ferry to Lixouri from Argostoli. It’s a really simple, cheap and scenic trip. The ferry leaves Argostoli port every half an hour during the season. We didn’t need to book in October and just joined a queue, drove on, then went up on deck to catch the views. The journey takes about 20 minutes.
Where to stay in Kefalonia
When it comes to choosing the best places to stay in Kefalonia, first decide on your priorities. If you’re prepared to go on some day trips you can see quite a lot of Kefalonia in one holiday. Although it is time consuming to drive from one end of the island to another.
Alternatively you could plan to split your time between the north and the south or east coast.
As a rule of thumb, the coastline in north Kefalonia tends to be pebbly, whilst the south has more sandy beaches.
In the north you’ll find pretty Venetian architecture and lively restaurants in Fiskardo, whilst the neighbouring villages are altogether quieter.
To the south of Kefalonia are the bigger tourist areas like Lassi and Skala. They have the most popular beaches and also more nightlife than in other parts of the island.
So now all you have to do is choose where to stay in Kefalonia: maybe a boutique villa in a fishing village? A spacious hideout away from the crowds? Or a luxury catered stay amongst ancient olive groves? We got the chance to try all three.
Kefalonia villas
Our stay on Kefalonia was hosted by Ionian Villas. This family-run specialist villa company has years of knowledge and experience on the Ionian Islands. David and Alex Watrous really know their stuff, as do their island representatives. Ionian Villas has a broad portfolio of properties with something for everyone. Here’s an introduction to the three villas we stayed in on Kefalonia.
Villas in Fiskardo
The three Fiscardo Bay Villas sit discreetly on the hillside, in richly planted gardens, overlooking the comings and goings of the village harbour in Fiskardo. The villas are stylish and understated, with generous sofas to sink into, chic marble bathrooms and immaculate bedrooms. Terraces and plunge pools complete the picture with a friendly attention to detail too. We could have happily pottered from beach to village to villa and back all week. Fiscardo Bay Villas each have 2 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms and sleep 4. Read more about our stay in a luxury Greek villa in Fiscardo.
Villas in southern Kefalonia
Villa Cara is an expansive and secluded countryside villa with views of the south coast and a big pool: perfect for family get togethers. Hop into the hanging rattan chair on the balcony and gaze across the glimmering Ionian sea to Zakynthos. You’ll hear nothing but birds and the distant dings and dongs of goat bells. Of course, if you forgot to shut the gates the night before, the goats may have joined you in the garden.
Villa Cara is no longer available but Villa Paradiso is a similar size and is also near the village of Spartia.
A catered villa in Kefalonia
Olivestone, true to its name, lies on an ancient olive estate. The house has the air of an old Tuscan villa with antique furniture and an Italianate garden around a pool.
What makes it a little different from most villas on Kefalonia is the fact that it is fully catered. The lovely Yolanda and Effie keep the house running like clockwork. No fears of returning from a day’s exploring to heaps of wet towels and nothing in the fridge. Instead you’ll be chatting happily on the candlelit terrace, drink in hand, whilst Yolanda magics up an evening’s feast for the family.
Olivestone villa could be just the ticket if you’re looking for a multi-generation stay or somewhere to mark a special reunion. Olivestone sleeps up to 10 with 5 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. It also has its own skippered yacht available for private charter.
Driving in Kefalonia
I found driving in Kefalonia pretty straightforward, especially as the roads are very quiet in October. Here are a few tips we picked up on the way:
In Greece, unlike the UK, you drive on the right. Less obviously, the give way arrangements at roundabouts are also different to the UK. Drivers who are already on the roundabout give way to traffic entering from the right. Your car hire agent will point this out to you (hopefully) and our road map included a little illustrative diagram. Watch out for the one-way systems in Kefalonia too.
Roads in Kefalonia are in a mix of conditions and the edges are often ill-defined. Even on a major road you may round a bend and meet a herd of goats or a small rock fall. The roads become very slippery if wet so be extra cautious and slow right down (though you won’t be going fast anyway). You may occasionally find yourself face to face with a slope more suited to a goat than a motor vehicle, but take it slowly and you should be fine.
Finally when you’re arranging your car hire, check the excess which may be high. I paid an additional sum of approx £25 for excess insurance before I left the UK. It’s cheaper that way than on the island. Ionian Villas can advise you about this.
If this post has been helpful please pin this image to save and share on Pinterest
October in Kefalonia Greece
The Ionian islands have a Mediterranean climate and are generally hot and dry from May to September. The weather in Kefalonia had been clear, blue and beautiful for months before we arrived at the beginning of October. And there was wall to wall sunshine on the day we left which stretched on for another couple of weeks. It must have been frustrating for the olive growers on the island who desperately needed some rain. Unfortunately for us the olives lucked out during the week we visited and we experienced one or two downpours along with a couple of dramatic thunderstorms. This led to temporary power cuts too.
But in and amongst this, as you’ll see from the photos, we had beautiful sunshine and warm seas for swimming in Kefalonia in October.
There are also several advantages to visiting Kefalonia out of high season. The weather wasn’t frazzlingly hot but was warm enough to sit in the sun in a swimsuit. Everywhere was quiet and we could really enjoy picturesque Fiskardo and Assos without the crowds. Bars and restaurants were still open and serving great food. And we found some end of season bargains in the boutiques!
So all in all I would visit Kefalonia in October again, only next time I’ll pack an umbrella!
With thanks for all your helpful advice to Freddy and Hiona Iossif, Lysander Migliaressis, Karen Remountos and David Watrous.
Kefalonia FAQs
You are likely to come across mosquitoes in the Ionian islands so it’s a good idea to go prepared. Many villas will provide mosquito plug ins, but check before you travel so you aren’t caught out on the first night. Pack a decent mosquito repellent too. After Bite is a good sting relief cream and Greek pharmacies sell similar ammonia-based products that are very effective.
Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands, at 773 sq km. It’s also the most mountainous with its highest peak, Mount Ainos, standing 1628 m tall. From north to south the island is about 80 km long and roughly 45 km wide.
In 1994 Louis de Bernières published the novel, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, a story of love and war, set in Kefalonia during its occupation in World War 2. It later became a film which was shot on location on the island.
Please note that all visitor information here is for guidance only. Please check the relevant websites for the most up to date information eg. accommodation details, tickets, entrance requirements, opening times etc.
What to read next: guide to the Ionian Islands of Greece
I’ve visited several of the lovely Ionian islands, Greece and they each have a different character.
Find out more about beautiful Fiskardo Kefalonia.
For a secluded villa in southern Kefalonia read about this catered villa on a private olive estate
Just a short boat trip from Corfu Paxos Greece is an unspoilt island getaway to remember
Check out our villa on Paxos island with a 5 star view.
And don’t miss a day trip to Antipaxos island with its Caribbean-style beaches.
Lying north of Kefalonia is Lefkada. We stayed at Vasiliki Lefkada, to explore the island.
Here’s a guide to our favourite beaches on Lefkada.
And discover magical Meganisi, one of the best kept secrets in the Ionian islands.
About the author Nancy Roberts is a former women’s magazine editor and writer. She lives in London and is mum to two 20-something boys. In Map&Family she shares info and inspiration for curious travellers: singles and couples as well as families travelling with teens and young adults.
All photos are all rights reserved. Please do not reproduce these photos without prior written permission. With thanks to David Watrous for the photos of Myrtos in Spring and the Melissani lake.
Trish says
This has brought back some memories. My husband and I went to Kefalonia in the early 90s. We stayed near Lassi. I remember those beautiful coastal views. #culturedkids
Map & Family says
That’s good to hear Trish. I stayed near Lassi years ago too!
USHA SITAARAAM says
I have not been to Greece. But having read the book Captain Corelli s Mandolin , Kafelonia is always on my bucket list. Beautiful post and photos. #culturedkids
Map & Family says
Thanks Usha, it’s great if a book can inspire a trip! I hope you get to Greece sometime.
Susan Pazera says
Lovely post with beautiful pictures! You make Kefalonia look so inviting, especially in October! Thanks for sharing.
Susan Pazera says
Lovely post and beautiful pictures. You make Kefalonia look so inviting, especially in October! Thank you for sharing.
Map & Family says
Thanks so much Susan! October can be hit and miss with the weather – I didn’t take a photo of the storms! But they were a bit exceptional and, since it’s an island the weather passes and changes quickly.
Laureen says
Love this post with some new fresh ideas. I adore Greece but this is an island I haven’t been to will be adding it to the list!
Map & Family says
Thanks Laureen, glad it’s been helpful!
Angela says
I have never been to Kefalonia but reading your blog has made me want to book for October! I noticed you had mosquito repellant on your list of things to take with you. Is this a big problem in October?
Map & Family says
You take your chance with the weather in October: we got sunshine and storms. But it wouldn’t stop me risking it again because it was blissfully quiet. Mozzie-wise, they were more of an issue in some places than others. But they do seem to like me -I got bitten more than Fiona!
Wendy Lee says
I’ve never been to Greece, but am eager to do so. Kefalonia looks awesome! Thanks for all of the great information.
Larch says
I have wanted to go to Kefalonia, ever since I read Captain Correlli’s Mandolin, but never seen to get there. After reading your post, I will put it on the list for later in the year. October sounds perfect!
Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays says
Mr CW and I first kissed on Kefalonia, feeling all misty eyed
Janis says
I can’t believe I still haven’t visited any Greek islands and Kefalonia looks and sounds beautiful. Thanks for tempting my taste buds, I’ve pinned it for a later date. #farawayfiles
Map & Family says
Thanks Janis! You’ve lots to look forward to if you haven’t visited any of the islands yet. The Ionian islands have the most beautiful blue sea in every shade from turquoise to indigo!
Jan (Chimptrips) says
Kefalonia looks beautiful. The beaches look so inviting. Were you able to go in the sea in October?
#farawayfiles
Map & Family says
Yes! The sea was beautifully warm. Even though we were unlucky with the weather I wouldn’t rule out October for a future trip.
Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) says
You’re really tempting me to go to Kefalonia in October. It looks so peaceful and you were pretty lucky with the weather. Those blue skies are just the tonic we need after a grey and rainy October in the UK. Love the look of the villas too. Thanks for inspiring me on #farawayfiles
Sue Spoonley says
Hi Nancy,
I have enjoyed what you have written about Kefalonia. We are going there 1st June for 2 weeks. Just wish I had found your site a while ago before booking where we are staying in Fiscardo. You have given us some lovely ideas as to where to visit and see etc etc. It has been really useful. Just wish we could buy a map of Fiscardo or at least find a tourist office on the Island. I thought that I had found one in Argostoli but I sent them a email over 3 weeks ago and have never had a reply. I found a phone number but that doesn’t work. We had hoped that we would find some local markets, but can’t find any mention. Oh well we will just have to go there and find out.
Thanks again Sue
Map & Family says
Hi Sue, great to hear from you and I’m so pleased the post is helpful. We got a paper map with our hire car, otherwise Amazon has a couple of maps – one’s for walking if that’s what you’re interested in? Also try the shops in Fiscardo. We didn’t come across any markets ourselves but once you’re there you’ll be able to ask around. Have a wonderful time!