Imagine a Greek island village with a sophisticated edge. Fiskardo Kefalonia is pastel-hued and stylish with historic houses gathered around the harbour. Fishing boats still bob here beside luxury yachts. But there aren’t any big hotels or night clubs and a little pathway still leads through pine trees to the water’s edge. Here’s why Fiskardo is the best place to stay on Kefalonia, one of the Ionian islands of Greece.
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What makes Fiskardo Kefalonia special?
Kefalonia is the largest of the seven Ionian islands which lie to the west of the Greek mainland. It’s known for its ancient olive trees, wooded mountains, sandy beaches and glittering azure sea. And when the film of Louis Bernière’s novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin was shot on the island in 2001 Kefalonia became even more famous.
On the northern tip of the island lies Fiskardo, also known as Fiscardo, a fishing village that nowadays has a cosmopolitan fan base.
The Ionian islands are one of the most popular sailing destinations in Greece, and Fiskardo is one of their most sought-after ports. Its safe anchorage and pretty pastel-painted village appeals to all kinds of sailors from flotilla groups to mega yachts. But the true joy of Fiskardo Kefalonia is the fact it has managed to retain its traditional fishing harbour vibe.
Fiskardo: a Greek fishing village with Venetian style
From the Middle Ages until the 18th century much of the Greek Ionian islands were actually controlled by the Republic of Venice. The Venetians influenced the culture and the architecture of the islands and you can still see pastel-coloured buildings with distinctive Venetian style in Corfu, Paxos and in Fiskardo.
These traditional Venetian-style buildings around the little village harbour luckily escaped the tremors of the 1953 earthquake in the Ionian islands. Though sadly it destroyed many fine period houses in Kefalonia’s capital, Argostoli.
Nowadays the handsome, low built buildings at the quayside are painted in Italianate ochres, pinks and greens. Cobbled alleys lead away from the waterfront, cats snooze in doorways and – even better – no big hotel complexes spoil the views.
The village still has its small fishing fleet and you’ll spot the colourful little wooden boats tied up alongside glamorous motor cruisers.
Greek law protects Fiskardo Kefalonia as an area of natural beauty, including the densely forested hillsides that surround the bay. So despite its popularity the majority of visitors stay in villas or on their boats.
And most importantly, even with busy summer seasons, day trippers and all those luxury yachts, Fiskardo still manages to feel laidback. You won’t find much in the way of nightclubs here, or sophisticated beach bars or designer stores. Instead you can enjoy the harbour comings and goings, the busy quayside seafood restaurants, the Ionian blue sea and lots of friendly Greek hospitality. And we think that’s why this is one of the best places to stay in Kefalonia.
How to get to Fiskardo Kefalonia
During the summer season Kefalonia’s international airport receives direct flights from several UK airports as well as 15 other European countries. The flight from London takes 3 hours 30 minutes. Check for flights here on Skyscanner.
Kefalonia international airport is at Argostoli, the island’s capital, on the west coast. By car the drive north to Fiskardo takes between an hour and 1hr 30 mins on a well-made direct coast road.
A friend and I flew out to Kefalonia from London Gatwick in the first week of October. We picked up a hire car at the airport then followed the road north to Fiskardo. It’s a straightforward journey, although you’ll be tempted to stop occasionally to drink in the spectacular views of the coastline from the clifftop road.
You can also travel to Fiskardo by ferry from Nidri or Vasiliki on nearby Lefkada island. The fastest ferry takes just over an hour.
Things to do in Fiskardo Kefalonia
You could easily spend a week in Fiskardo, especially if you have a hire car. This would give you time to enjoy day-to-day village life, explore the local beaches and take some day trips further afield.
Explore Fiscardo harbour
The most important thing to do in Fiskardo is spend some time at the harbour. In the high season boats tie up bumper to bumper along the quayside. It’s a popular mooring for Ionian sailors who return year after year to enjoy the bars and restaurants at the water’s edge.
Colourful houses line the harbour and the lively combinations of colours: terracotta and blue, ochre and green, echo the brightly painted fishing boats that bob at their moorings between luxury yachts and cruisers. Bougainvillea blossoms in swathes on the pastel walls.
It’s all very picturesque and it’s made more special by the fact that the harbour is car-free. You can’t help staying for another coffee to watch the boat’y world go by.
At night you pick a restaurant. By day you choose your cafe. Will it be Melina’s Patisserie that serves pots of tea beside the bougainvillea? Or perhaps you’d rather sit at a table on the quayside for coffee and a hunk of Greek pastry, dripping in honey?
Fiscardo has a cosmopolitan clientele during the summer and when we went exploring we discovered little boutiques with stylish Greek and Italian brands. Since it was October we also found some end of season sales. So we spent a happy hour or two browsing summer dresses and doing a spot of present shopping.
Walk to Fiskardo’s lighthouses and ancient basilica
On our first morning I walked down the hill from our villa to wave off some friends who were sailing on to nearby Ithaca. From the quayside I followed a little path through the woods to the headland. It’s a lovely walk for a hot day, sheltered by fragrant pine trees and with lots of glimpses of the Ionian blue sea. And it’s a walk with a purpose because two lighthouses keep watch over the entrance to Fiskardo’s harbour.
The taller one was first built in 1892, the smaller is a Venetian lighthouse that dates back to the 16th century. As you reach the lighthouses you can see the island of Ithaca that lies alongside Kefalonia.
Follow the path a little further, it’s well signposted, and you’ll find the ruins of an early Byzantine basilica. It is just ruins, but the walk is lovely.
It takes about 15 minutes to reach the first lighthouse so allow an hour to do the whole circuit with time to admire the scenery. A map in the village shows the walks around the headland. And Fiskardo has several other walking trails to try too.
The Best Fiskardo beaches
The local beaches in Fiskardo are mainly shingle or pebbles with lovely clear water that’s great for swimming and snorkelling. Only one is an organised beach so it’s a good idea to take beach mats, umbrellas and snacks with you. Visiting a beach is one of the best things to do in Fiskardo!
- Zavalata beach in Fiskardo is just a three minute walk from the harbourside. It’s small and pebbly but has a big tree for shade.
- Emblisi or Emplisi beach is a 25 minute walk from Fiskardo town, or 5 minute drive. This sheltered cove is flanked by unusual slanting rocks on either side which are handy for sunbathing. Fine white pebbles slope straight into warm deep crystal clear water, perfect for a swim. Lush vegetation clothes the hillsides and olive trees fringe the edge of the sand. The view inland is slightly marred by a pylon in the background which no one mentions in reviews(!) but we felt the cheerful Cariba beach bar made up for this, serving toasties, beers and cocktails. It’s all very low-key but one of my favourite Fiskardo beaches.
- Kimilia beach is small and nicely off the beaten track. To reach it, go through a gateway at the back of Emplisi beach and follow a little wooded pathway around the peninsula. You can approach from the road too then park and walk for 10 or so minutes to find it.
- Dafoudi beach is a little further around the peninsula. You can park and then it’s about a 20 minute walk to the very shingly beach. No facilities. I haven’t been, but reviews are mixed and suggest it’s best approached by boat.
- Foki beach in Fiskardo is on the opposite side of town to Emblisi and again is walkable in about 20 minutes or is a 5 minute drive. It’s a small shingly beach with olive trees for shade and a good taverna by the car parking.
- Jerusalem beach is a bit further away, a 20 minute drive from Fiskardo. But it’s worth knowing about as part of it is a managed beach with sunbeds and parasols. It has a restaurant behind the beach too. Plus an ancient little stone church which the beach is named after.
Click for an interactive google map of Fiskardo beaches.
Favourite Fiskardo restaurants
The evening we arrived at our villa we went straight to the harbour to meet up with friends. They were sailing in the Ionian islands and had make a detour to Kefalonia to see us.
We joined the crew in the Fishbone bar then quickly moved to a taverna. Ten of us squeezed around a table for an evening of anecdotes and catching up. Plates piled with spit roast pork, souvlakia and huge Greek salads sound like a cliché – but it was exactly what we wanted. Authentic Greek island food straight from the grill with bottles of local white and rose wine: it was the perfect introduction to a week in the Ionian islands.
Fiskardo offers plenty of choice of restaurants from traditional tavernas like this to excellent up-scale seafood restaurants and international menus. You could easily eat somewhere different every night. Our favourites were:
Vasso’s at the waterside which supplied a huge portion of freshly cooked Kefalonian meat pie one lunchtime, with an equally enormous Greek salad. This is an island speciality that’s worth tasting. Vasso’s has great views of the harbour from the tables too.
Roula’s Grill was our favourite Fiskardo restaurant. It was so good we ate there twice. Roula’s gets amazing reviews too so it wasn’t a fluke. You’ll need to book during the season and the waterfront views are excellent from the outside tables. Try the aubergine saganaki and also the stuffed tomatoes. Kefalonians use a fragrant herb combination including spearmint which we eventually tracked down in an island supermarket to take back to our own kitchens.
Plan a Day trip from Fiscardo
You could happily spend several days in Fiskardo Kefalonia without going anywhere. But it would be a shame to miss out on the rest of the island. A rental car makes it easy to visit some of the must-see sights in the northern parts of Kefalonia island.
Visit Assos from Fiskardo
You can drive to the romantic waterside village of Assos in just over 30 minutes from Fiscardo. It’s small but very pretty with a couple of tavernas and shops and a ruined castle on a hillside.
See Myrtos Beach on the west coast
Another 25 minutes south from Assos, or 45 mins direct from Fiskardo, will bring you to Myrtos beach. This is the stunning turquoise bay that’s a regular on the Best Beach in Greece lists. And you’ll understand why when you first catch a glimpse of it from the coast road. It’s a spectacular view as sheer white cliffs frame a slick of silvery pebble and sand that contrasts sharply with the aquamarine and cobalt sea. It’s the same Caribbean colours that you’ll find on the beaches of the much tinier Ionian island of Antipaxos.
Myrtos is an organised beach with sunbeds, parasols and a snack bar. Despite its serene appearance it does have strong currents and sometimes big waves so be cautious about swimming here.
Take a trip to an underground lake and cave
The Melissani lake and Drogarati cave on the east side of the island are a fun place to visit on Kefalonia. Take a little boat ride into an underground lake where the water is a magical shade of blue, illuminated by sunlight through the roof of the cave. Mid-afternoon is the best time to see this.
Antisamos beach is just 10 mins away from the cave and a must-do for fans of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Parts of the film were shot here.
Guided Tours to Fiscardo from Argostoli
If you’re staying to the south of the island, you can easily find a guided day trip to show you the best parts of northern Kefalonia.
This tour concentrates on the west coast highlights and Fiskardo. It starts from Argostoli and takes the coast road to Assos and then Fiskardo. You’ve time to explore and have lunch in Fiskardo before returning via Myrtos beach for a 2 hr swim stop.
Fiskardo weather
Fiskardo, like the rest of Kefalonia, enjoys a Mediterranean climate of hot dry summers and mild winters. The summer season runs from June to September. But you can enjoy lovely weather in the Ionian islands earlier in the year too, although bear in mind the sea temperature will be cooler than in high summer. You can check average weather in Kefalonia, month by month here.
Weather in Fiscardo Kefalonia in October
Travelling out of peak season always carries a slight risk of not-perfect weather. But you weigh that against fewer crowds, peace and quiet, sun that isn’t broiling and the luxury of having a 5 star Greek beach to yourself.
In early October Fiskardo Kefalonia is winding down after a busy summer. We found the sea was still warm enough for swimming and the neighbouring beaches were lovely and quiet while not being deserted. Restaurants and shops were still open and visitors like us were still arriving.
We were a bit unlucky in Fiskardo in October and were treated to a short series of magnificent thunderstorms that temporarily outed the electricity and the water supplies. Getting away from ‘it all’ on a small island can sometimes include utilities too. But things righted themselves soon enough and we had sunshine again and plenty of opportunities to spend time on the beaches and explore.
Stay in a luxury Fiscardo villa
Our home on a hillside, with a fabulous bird’s eye view of Fiskardo village and harbour, was Milos, one of the Fiscardo Bay Villas.
If you’re looking for a luxury villa in Fiskardo Kefalonia, I’ve lots of good things to say about the Fiscardo Bay Villas. The three stand separately and privately in aromatic landscaped gardens. Whilst their hillside vantage point gives beautiful views of the village and water’s edge which is only 100 or so metres away.
Fiskardo villa with harbour views
A great view is one of my top Greek island villa priorities, along with a decent terrace or balcony to enjoy it, so that’s a big box ticked for me.
Even better, you can watch the comings and goings in the harbour all day and enjoy the twinkling lights at night, but you’re far enough away to not hear it. At least that was our experience in October, but I’d imagine the villas are pretty quiet all year round.
Inside the Fiscardo Bay Villas
It’s not just about location. These villas offer a quietly luxurious version of island living. The decoration is stylish but with little touches in the colour palette and artwork to remind you that you’re in Greece. The living area and kitchen are compact but open-plan with a lofty pitched ceiling that gives an airy feel. Two sets of doors open onto the balcony which spans the width of the villa. Out there two seating areas give grandstand views of the harbour.
The kitchen is easy on the eye with dark olive cupboards and a swathe of marble on the wall. It’s as well-appointed as you’d expect, including a selection of coffee makers. Beyond scrambled eggs we didn’t do any cooking. But we could have done easily in that kitchen, or booked a cook to cater a dinner or two. Off the kitchen is a guest loo and a laundry room with washing machine.
The sitting area has a capacious sofa whilst the wi-fi and air conditioning worked effortlessly on both levels of the house.
We slept soundly in the two boutique hotel-style bedrooms. The king-size beds were blissfully comfortable with excellent pillows – another of my personal priorities.
Each bedroom has a marble ensuite bathroom that didn’t feel Greek island at all. Apart from the up scale Apivita bath products that are based on Greek plant extracts. The towels were as white and fluffy as you’d hope for and matching big bathrobes are another luxurious touch.
I liked the layout, the sense of Greek heritage, and that lovely Greek view, and I appreciated the sort of creature comforts that make you feel pampered on holiday. For starters the entire villa was spotless. And it stayed that way thanks to a very discreet but efficient daily maid service.
Despite the wide range of Greek weather on display during our stay it was the attention to detail by the charming villa team that kept us dry and happy. Members of the team are on site 24/7 so smart umbrellas were ready in the hallway at the first cloudburst. And the villa has a buggy service that will whisk you up and down the hill to the village – though it’s only a 5 minute walk.
Milos had other little touches that made us feel properly welcome. As well as a homemade cake, the fridge and cupboards were ready stocked, so we didn’t need to rush to the supermarket. Instead at breakfast time we could feast on a cosmopolitan range of granolas and yoghurts, a rack of fresh eggs, a bowl of fruit along with bacon, feta, bread, honey, orange juice and so on.
Beers were chilling in the fridge and a bottle of red was at hand too. And we appreciated the drawerful of mosquito plug-ins to keep the insects at bay.
The bedrooms in Milos are on the ground floor and open onto a terrace with a big plunge pool, sunloungers and that view again. This upside down living arrangement works very well. The best views are on the upper floor from the living room, kitchen and balcony. Whilst it’s handy to have pool and showers together on the lower level.
In keeping with the grown-up vibe of the villa I’d say it’s a pool for chilling rather than boisterous games or swimming lengths. The tiles were a bit slippery – so no running. But importantly the terrace is well stocked with loungers, umbrellas, a dining table and a gas barbecue. Perfect for long warm evenings with toes in the pool and supper on the grill, watching the village lights twinkling across the water.
Visitors can borrow bicycles to speed around the local beaches. But of course the nicest way to get around is by boat. You’ll find plenty to rent in Fiskardo village and you can moor at the waterfront just below the villa.
How to book the Fiscardo Bay Villas
The Fiscardo Bay Villas each have two bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms and sleep 4 with an additional sofa bed in the living area.
Guests can choose a standard or bespoke package for their stay – ours was the bespoke. Read more about Fiscardo Bay Villas here and then chat to one of the team at Ionian Villas about what would suit you best.
Fiskardo Kefalonia FAQs
You can take the ferry to Ithaca from Sami on the east coast of Kefalonia. In high season a service also runs between Fiscardo and Ithaca which takes around 45 mins. If you have a hire car take it with you so that you can explore the island.
Fiskardo in Kefalonia is a well known port for yachts and boats sailing in the Ionian islands. Its sheltered harbour is surrounded by pretty pastel-painted houses and the hillsides around the bay are a protected area of natural beauty. Nikos Kavvadias a famous 20th century Greek poet also lived in Fiskardo.
During Roman times Fiskardo was a port named Panormos. A Roman cemetery and a further burial site were discovered during building work in the village in 1993 and 2006.
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Disclosure: My visit to Kefalonia was hosted by Ionian Villas. They’re a family company with a carefully curated selection of villas and apartments on the Ionian group of islands in Greece. Father and son, David and Alex Watrous have been travelling there for years and know the islands inside out. Their island managers are similarly clued up and helpful . Discover the range of properties they offer on the island, from hideaways for two to big luxury Greek villas, here.
Ionian Villas hosted my stay on the understanding that I would write an honest and unbiased account of my trip. All thoughts and opinions are, as always, my own.
Please note that all visitor information here is for guidance only. Please check the relevant websites for the most up to date information eg. accommodation details, tickets, entrance requirements, opening times etc.
What to read next: guide to the Ionian islands of Greece
I’ve visited several of the lovely Ionian islands in Greece and they each have a different character.
- Get an overview of things to do on Kefalonia island.
- For a villa in southern Kefalonia, Greece read about this catered villa on a private olive estate
- Just a short boat trip from Corfu is magical little Paxos.
- Check out our villa on Paxos island with a 5 star view.
- And don’t miss a day trip to Anti Paxos island.
- Lying north of Kefalonia is Lefkada. We stayed at Vasiliki Lefkada, to explore the island
- Here’s a guide to our favourite beaches on Lefkada.
- And discover Meganisi, one of the best kept secrets in the Ionian islands
About the author Nancy Roberts is a former women’s magazine editor and writer. She lives in London and is mum to two 20-something boys. In Map&Family she shares info and inspiration for curious travellers: singles and couples as well as families travelling with teens and young adults.
All photos are all rights reserved. Please do not reproduce these photos without prior written permission
Trish says
This is a gorgeous villa – I love the colours of the interior. The views are just incredible. And how great to meet up with your yachty friends too.
Map & Family says
I really liked the colours too! It was a lovely coincidence that my friends were there at the same time 😀
Jo says
The villa looks beautiful and what a perfect position and great view. We loved Fiskardo, great place from where to explore the island, it has a real charm. #FarawayFiles
Map & Family says
Thanks Jo! It’s great to hear from other people who’ve enjoyed Fiscardo too.
Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) says
A whole week on Kefalonia with a girlfriend? How very dreamy – I’m so jealous! We really liked our trip up to Fiskardo. We were staying on the south of the island but I much preferred the north and especially pretty little Assos further down the coast. I imagine that Fiskardo is particularly nice in early October as it was quite crowded when we were there in August. Thanks for sharing your lovely stay with us on #FarawayFiles
Map & Family says
Thanks Clare, yes I liked the north best overall although we didn’t have time to explore the whole of the south or eastern coastline. I do think that if you don’t mind risking the weather, October is a lovely time to visit. Fiscardo and Assos were both pretty and peaceful! September would be worth looking into as well!