Looking for the ultimate hotel and spa experience? The sybaritic pleasures of luxury living, up-scale treatments, fine food and spectacular views? With plenty to do if you want adventure too? The legendary Burgenstock Hotel and Spa in Switzerland could be just what you need for a special escape.
Catherine Sheargold is a journalist who divides her time between London and Piedmont, Italy. Last winter she and her husband David – and French bulldog Hugo – spent a weekend at the 5-star superior Burgenstock Hotel and Alpine Spa near Lucerne, Switzerland.
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Burgenstock Hotel and Spa
Catherine writes:”The Bürgenstock Resort and Spa is perched on a cloud-piercing mountain ridge 500 metres above Lake Lucerne. As one of the best luxury hotels in Switzerland it’s been a retreat for the great and glamorous for more than a century.
In fact Burgenstock is more than one hotel. The luxury resort complex includes the newly built Bürgenstock Hotel & Alpine Spa, the contemporary Waldhotel health spa, plus the legendary art nouveau Palace Hotel. They are all set in 60 acres of stunning countryside along with Pension Taverne 1879 and the exclusive Residences.
Burgenstock Resort
The journey to the Burgenstock Resort is a luxury experience in itself. If you’re travelling from Lucerne you can make a Bond-style entrance across the lake in the hotel’s sleek electric catamaran. From the dock a vintage-style funicular carries you to the top of the ridge where the hotel stands and delivers you to the Burgenstock hotel’s spacious lobby.
Arrive by car and you follow a picturesque winding alpine road uphill from nearby Stansstad. Passing manicured pastures and Swiss chalet-style farmsteads you arrive onto the broad concourse at the hotel’s entrance. The concierge will park your car and whisk your bags to your room.
Once in the lobby, all gold columns, dark wood and enormous floor-to-ceiling windows, you experience another of the resort’s stand out features. For the lobby looks out onto one of the best views in the world: glistening Lake Lucerne with the snow-capped Alps beyond.
The Rooms at Burgenstock Hotel and Spa
Burgenstock Hotel, completely refurbished in 2017, is a five-star superior hotel. And its rooms are high-end luxury. Ours was a 42 sq metre Contemporary Deluxe room, comfortable and sleek with dark wood floors, brown and cream marble and tweed upholstery. But its signature feature, shared by every room in the hotel, was its panoramic windows framing jaw-dropping views.
The bathroom was cleverly hidden behind a large natural wood pocket door. A separate bath area, with waterfall shower and square double bathtub also had a floor-to-ceiling picture window with the same room-filling view.
A double-sided log effect fireplace between the bedroom and bathroom meant we could soak up the view while wallowing in fire-lit Acqua di Parma bubbles.
Dogs are welcome too. A comfy dog bed and bowls were waiting for our French bulldog Hugo.
The room facilities are all that you’d hope for from a five-star hotel. The bed was superking soft with a pillow menu. A walk-in wardrobe area had a full-length mirror and safe, and the room included a desk area, a sofa, a mini bar and flat-screen TV plus a window seat to make the most of the views. Its contemporary design subtly acknowledged the alpine surroundings with cow bell-inspired pendant lights and a cowhide style rug.
Drinks were on hand with a stylish Nespresso machine and kettle plus a selection of teas and coffee, soft drinks and water. We found slippers, fluffy dressing gowns and flipflops waiting to wear to the spa. And a selection of vintage-style postcards and writing paper for traditional letters home.
Why the Burgenstock Hotels are Legendary
Burgenstock was the brainchild of Victorian entrepreneurs, Franz Josef Bucher and Josef Durrer. On a visit to the isolated ridge in 1871, they decided it was the perfect place to build a luxury hotel. Lucerne was already a fashionable destination and their gamble paid off. Two years later the Grand Hotel Burgenstock offered clean air, alpine beauty and a comfortable and exclusive retreat. It was an instant hit with wealthy Victorian travellers.
The Park and the Palace hotels joined the Burgenstock over the next three decades. Belle Epoque guests and day trippers travelled to the top of the ridge by funicular. And the well-to-do flocked to experience the resort’s engineering miracles: a spectacular cliff walk crafted from the mountain face and the famous Hammetschwand lift. Based on the Eiffel Tower this iron construction was – and still is – Europe’s highest outdoor elevator. This thrilling ride speeded delighted guests to the mountain peak.
During the 1950s and 60s, Burgenstock Resort became a mecca for Hollywood stars in search of a luxury getaway. It was 60s-chic with a fashionable Californian style kidney-shaped pool. Beside it a sunken bar had portholes in the walls for underwater views.
When scenes from the 1964 Bond film Goldfinger were shot in Lucerne, the cast stayed at Burgenstock. Sadly an embargo on photography means we have no proof that Sean Connery sipped a martini by the Hollywood pool. Though it’s easy to imagine that he did!
Audrey Hepburn married actor and director Mel Ferrer here in 1954 in the resort’s pretty white chapel. Charlie Chaplin was a regular. While Sophia Loren lived here with her film director husband Carlo Ponti for 13 years.
Today Burgenstock’s glamorous history is captured in images on the walls of the museum corridor which links old and new buildings.
Re-imagining Burgenstock Hotel
When Burgenstock fell out of favour in the 1980s and 90s the resort’s new owners, Katara Hospitality, made the bold decision to rebuild the Burgenstock Hotel.
Aptly named Goldfinger by its architect, the new glass and stone complex of the Burgenstock Hotel and Alpine Spa perfectly combines 21st century luxury with its sense of old school glamour.
With the Park Hotel demolished, the historic Palace Hotel was lovingly restored and, along with the new Waldhotel medical spa and several private residences, the complex reopened in 2017.
Burgenstock Alpine Spa
The breathtaking views from Burgenstock Resort, with beautiful Lake Lucerne on one side and the Swiss Alps on the other, are enough to restore and revive. But the world-class luxury spa takes you to another level. Over three storeys high and 10,000 square metres, it’s a paradise for wellness seekers.
The Alpine Spa has four saunas, an infrared cabin, three steam rooms (I loved the peppermint-fragranced aroma room), a floating salt bath, an ice room and warm and cold Kneipp baths. Much of this area is described as ‘nude zone’ or textile free, though stripping off is optional – we decided to stay covered! Some saunas are mixed and some are female only.
Completely private spa suites are also available, fully equipped with saunas, jacuzzis, treatment and lounge areas – and views of course.
The relaxation areas have state-of-the-art nap shells while snacking stations are equipped with fruit, flavoured water and fruit teas.
For those who want a workout the well equipped 200 sq m gym and fitness area is open 24 hours.
Five pools include a 20m indoor pool for laps – and more stunning views. The iconic Hollywood pool still adjoins an underground bar, the Bull’s Eye, with its two-way underwater window. While three more outdoor pools offer warm or icy cold plunges.
But the piece-de-resistance has to be the new outdoor infinity pool, heated to 35°, with panoramic Alpine views. On a misty winter weekend, tired after a long drive, sitting (yes, there are seats in the pool) in muscle-soothing warm water looking out over beautiful Lake Lucerne really was a pinch-me moment.
Treatments at Burgenstock Hotel
Therapists in 13 treatment rooms administer facials and massages from an extensive spa menu and range of products. Star treatments include Burgenstock’s 60-minute full body massage. Or, for the ultimate in decadence, the Amra skincare Pure Rarity Body Ritual, which concludes with a 24-carat-gold hot stone massage. The Backstage Hair Spa completes the picture.
Children are welcome in the spa’s wet areas if they’re accompanied by an adult, but need to be over 16 to go in the nude zone. Burgenstock has a Kid’s Club but children aged 6 to 14 can get a taste of spa life with their own facial, massage, mani or pedi.
Restaurants at Burgenstock Hotel and Spa
Foodies will love Burgenstock Resort’s ten restaurants and bars with menus ranging through fine dining and global flavours to light, seasonal specialities and traditional Swiss dishes. Our weekend stay meant we had two opportunities for dinner and we picked Spices Kitchen and Terrace and the Middle Eastern themed Parisa.
All the restaurants are busy, especially at weekends with day visitors and local customers, but tables are always available for the hotels’ guests.
Spices Kitchen
First up, Spices Kitchen, a grand tour of Southeast Asia’s culinary powerhouses: Japan, Thailand, India and China. The 22-page menu really does have something for everyone, from classic Thai and Indian curries, to dim sum, sushi, rice and noodles, breads, plus vegetarian and vegan options from its open kitchen.
We went for tandoor-grilled lamb chops and chicken tikka for starters and the wok-fried black-pepper beef main course. And I’ll never forget the daal. A blend of spices and black lentils simmered overnight on charcoal, it was one of the best I’ve ever tasted.
Parisa
The next evening we ate at the Persian restaurant Parisa, where we picked a tasting menu for two. The five appetizers were all subtly spiced to tastebud-tingling perfection. A dip of whipped yoghurt flavoured with roasted walnuts, raisins and dried mint; melt-in-the-mouth aubergine with a yoghurt and mint pesto dressing, plus lamb meatballs in a pomegranate and herby salsa.
Next came a selection of saffron-and-yoghurt-marinated lamb, beef, chicken and prawn kebabs and a palate-cleansing rosewater and lime sorbet.
Breakfast at Burgenstock
Breakfasts were also a highlight! For these we went to the Spices Kitchen which cantilevers out from the cliffside for panoramic views over Lake Lucerne and the Alps. Here healthy food is taken to stunning new heights, quite literally in the case of the Vitality breakfast stand. This is four tiers of healthy-meets-heavenly delights, including hummus and crudités, cured meats, bircher muesli, fresh fruit, avocado and pastries.
Other breakfast dishes worth ordering are the blueberry and maple syrup pancakes and the Burgenstock Royal, with eggs poached to perfection.
More restaurants at Burgenstock resort
Burgenstock’s 10 restaurants span the globe, the others include:
Brasserie Ritzcoffier A beautiful salon-style room in the historic Palace Hotel, it serves modern French classics.
Osteria Alpina Terrazza Think Italian comfort food with a view.
Oak Grill and Pool Patio Located at the Burgenstock Alpine Spa, the Oak Grill specialises in wood-fired steaks and meat dishes.
Verbena Restaurant & Bar Gourmet and deliciously healthy dishes for those wanting to shape up without feeling deprived. Located in the Waldhotel.
Taverne 1879 Traditional Swiss cuisine in a 19th-century chalet.
Lakeview Bar & Cigar Lounge From lunchtime salads and club sandwiches to afternoon tea and cocktail hour.
Activities at Burgenstock Resort
As well as the fully equipped 24 hour gym at the Spa, Burgenstock resort has plenty of outdoor activities too. State-of-the-art indoor ‘domes’ enclose two Davis Cup standard tennis courts, whilst the outdoor court transforms into a skating rink in winter.
Golfers will enjoy the nine-hole alpine course and driving range, while guests can explore the hiking and biking trails. During the summer Lake Lucerne is the venue for water sports and boat trips.
How to get to Burgenstock Resort and Spa
Zurich International Airport is 53 km from Burgenstock resort. Trains from the airport to Lucerne railway station take about an hour. Burgenstock’s private catamaran shuffle service operates from the dock at Lucerne which is a five-minute walk from the train station. The boat runs hourly, between 6am and midnight, and is a free service for guests staying at the Hotel.
Where to stay at Burgenstock Resort
The Burgenstock Resort has four hotels plus residences:
Catherine stayed at Burgenstock Hotel and Alpine Spa It has 211 luxury, contemporary rooms with amazing views, access to the Spa and 10 restaurants on site. Click here for availability and to book Burgenstock Hotel and Alpine Spa
The Palace Hotel is 109 rooms and suites that are classic with a modern twist. The Ritzcoffier restaurant is here with Burgenstock’s 9 other restaurants in walking distance. Click here for availability and to book Palace Hotel
The contemporary Waldhotel Health and Wellbeing was designed by architect Matteo Thun. A holistic health retreat with 137 rooms and suites it offers medical and therapeutic services. Click here for availability and to book Waldhotel
Taverne 1879 is a three star Alpine chalet style hotel in the Burgenstock resort. Guests can use the fitness club at the Waldhotel and the shuttle services free of charge. The resort’s Alpine Spa is also available for a surcharge. Click here for availability and to book Taverne !879
Burgenstock Residences Suites are within walking distance of the main resort and have free access to the pools, the Alpine Spa and fitness club as well as the cinema, tennis courts and a car parking space. Shuttle services to Lucerne are also free. Click here for availability and to book Burgenstock Residences Suites
10 Things to do in Lucerne
Nestled on the banks of the lake with a spectacular mountain backdrop, Lucerne is the perfect destination for a weekend away. Whether you want to explore the Alpine countryside, go on a boat trip or wander round the stunning medieval old town, it really does have something for everyone. Here are Catherine’s top ten things to do:
1 Cruise the Lake
Why not see the stunning Alpine landscape and elegant Lucerne city from the water on a panoramic yacht trip? Or for lunch with a lake view, try a cruise with an on-board three-course meal.
2 Climb Mount Pilatus in comfort
Steeped in folklore and mystery, the region’s highest and most famous peak is like a backdrop to Game of Thrones. Also called the ‘Dragon Mountain’, legend relates that it’s inhabited by dragons with healing powers. You may not see any fire-breathing reptiles, but it is home to a wealth of wildlife. If you’re lucky you’ll spot ibexes, chamois goats, red deer, kites, marmots and bearded vultures.
The scenic route to the top of Mount Pilatus and back involves a paddle steamer, cogwheel train, cable car and gondola lift. The Golden Tour round trip (available from May to October) takes half a day: worth it for the spectacular Alpine views.
3 Cross the Medieval Bridges
Dating back to the 14th-century, the covered wooden Chapel Bridge across the River Reuss connects Lucerne’s old and new towns. The oldest of its kind in Europe, it was destroyed in a fire in 1993, but restored to its former medieval glory in just eight months. Don’t forget to look up when walking across it: some of the triangular panels supporting the roof are adorned with restored medieval paintings.
It’s easily confused with the Spreuer Bridge (we were!) which was built slightly later. This is worth the visit too for the 45 macabre ‘dance of death’ paintings in the rafters. A good way of seeing both is by walking across one en route to the old town, then back across the other.
4 Wander round the Old Town
With its cobbled streets, picturesque frescoed buildings and charming churches, Lucerne is one of the most beautiful cities in Switzerland. And there’s a real fairytale feel in the old town. It is pedestrianised, so easy to explore on foot: notable streets and squares include Hirschenplatz, Sternenplatz, Weinmarkt, Kramgasse and Metzgerrainle.
5 Visit the Swiss Museum of Transport
Trains, planes and vintage cars, plus a cinema with the biggest screen in Switzerland, virtual mountain climbing, a planetarium, a chocolate museum and two restaurants make this one of Switzerland’s biggest attractions. It’s the ultimate family day out. Tickets from 12 Swiss francs, verkehrshaus.ch
6 View the Rosengart Collection
Picasso, Klee, Cézanne, Matisse, Chagall, Renoir… Lucerne’s must-see gallery has more than 300 works by the world’s greatest Impressionist and Modernist masters. Originally the private collection of art dealer Siegfried Rosengart and his daughter Angela, it’s been open to the public since 2002. Entry costs from 10 Swiss francs per person, rosengart.ch
7 Admire the Lion Monument
Carved into a rock overlooking a picturesque glade, this is a poignant memorial to the Swiss Guards who died while trying to protect King Louis XVI during the French Revolution. The massive sandstone sculpture depicts a dying lion impaled by a sword. The two shields by its side are the fleur-de-lys of the French monarchy and the Swiss cross. It was created by Danish-born artist Bertel Thorvaldsen in 1821. When Mark Twain visited Lucerne in 1878 he called it ‘the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world’. It’s free to visit and situated on Denkmalstrasse, about a 20-minute walk from the city centre
8 Tour the Glacier Garden
Fancy a 20-million-year trip back in time? Explore the remains of Ice Age glacier formations and fossils of shells and palms on this nature trail with a difference. From 12 Swiss francs per person, gletschergarten.ch/en
9 Walk the Musegg Wall
The 13th-century wall and its nine towers are all that remains of Lucerne’s historic fortifications. You can stroll along part of the wall and get excellent selfie opportunities with the city, lake and mountains as your backdrop. Four of the towers, Männli, Zyt, Wacht and Schirmer, are also open to the public between April and November.
10 Shop for Watches and Chocolate
Rolex? Tick. Longines? Tick. Omega? Tick. Lucerne is the place to buy designer Swiss timepieces. Stores to head for include Bucherer at Schwanenplatz 5 and Rent A Box, Kornmarkt 8, which sells beautifully restored preloved watches.
Chocolate is of course another Swiss speciality. And around Hertensteinstrasse Street, you will find some of the city’s best chocolatiers. Check out Läderach, Max Chocolatier, Bachmann and Heini.
Please note that all visitor information here is for guidance only. Please check the relevant websites for the most up to date information eg. accommodation details, tickets, entrance requirements, opening times etc.
All photos are all rights reserved. Please do not reproduce these photos without prior written permission
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Catherine is a journalist who divides her time between London and Piedmont. You can follow her life in Italy on her Instagram account @cascinacaterinaitaly
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